15th Century Box Inventory

here is the promised list of items in the 15th Century Box at the Design Center at Philadelphia University.  Photos to follow in a small or cropped format.   Details about the show and tell & image CD will also follow.  Closeups and titles are located here: https://afashionableexcuse.wordpress.com/2011/04/07/15th-century-box-inventory-photos-and-update/

Please note that some of the previous “conservation” attempts are awful and were NOT done by the Design Center.

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1) Textile Fragment-Ciselé Velvet-15th Century (1976.57.10)

  • Description: Gold colored Ciselé and Voided Velvet in a large floral pattern.  Rectangular panel is pieced together using smaller rectangular pieces (9); where possible the pattern was matched; hand sewn edge to edge rather than with a seam allowance; Large palmettos, lilies, ect,
  • Location: Venice (?), Italy
  • Materials: silk and linen
  • Condition: Poor with large areas of wear and dirt
  • Size: 131 cm warp x 63cm weft

2) Rectangular Church Textile-Brocade-16th Century (74-63-2)

  • Description: Brocade of red silk that is now faded to tan/beige color, Lined with coarse linen, edged with yellow silk trim in a diamond figured ribbon.
  • Location: Italy
  • Materials: silk
  • Condition: poor, very damaged with previous minor conservation attempts, fold damage in center, now on tube
  • Size: 87.5cm x59cm

3) Textile Fragment-Velvet-16th Century (1976.57.28)

  • Description: Long rectangular form; large floral motif of what was gray/green pile with complimentary warp of beige forming satin background, (91.5cm repeat), weft was coarse linen, that does not appear in design originally but due to wear now shows.  Original green color shows on edge
  • Location: Italy
  • Materials: silk and linen
  • Condition: poor
  • Size: 154.5cm warp x 63cm weft

4) Pink and Gold Floral Silk Jacquard (INV 2083)

  • Description: Pink floral on gold silk ground, silk Jacquard fragment with corner removed, c. 1500-1700, 62cm repeat
  • Location: European
  • Materials: silk
  • Condition: corner is cut off but otherwise in good condition
  • Size: 56cm weft x 72cm warp

5) Bible Bookmark (INV 2082)

  • Description: bible bookmark with silver bobbin lace around lower edged on both sides 5.4 cm wide, and silver couched embroidery and two lower ends with spangles and red metal plates; finger loop braided trim with large tassel sewn to center inside of the bookmark.  Tassel is silk with silver net and thread (11.5cm long tassel with 58cm long finger loop braided trim).  Ground is silk jacquard in green striped with a pink jacquard floral lining.  Hand Sewn. -late Tudor, early Elizabethan in style
  • Location: European
  • Materials: Silk with metal thread
  • Condition: excellent
  • Size: Length with lace 83.5cm x wide with lace 13.5cm

6) Cloth-of-Gold Fragments- 17th Century (INV 2078)

  • Description: 2 band fragments of church vestments (collar?), cloth-of-gold in a floral pattern, lined in pink linen
  • Location: European
  • Materials: metal thread, silk and linen lining
  • Condition: excellent
  • Size: band one 11cm wide x 90.5 long and band two 11cm wide x 36.5 long

7) Textile Fragment- Scarlet Ciselé Velvet- 16th Century (1976.57.25)

  • Description: Fragment, rectangular form; Ciselé velvet with stylized floral design; large floral (5) retain some velvet in scarlet with some silver embroidery in center of flowers, gold colored background, pink silk backing was added later, lots of bad conservation attempts by machine and hand, burns, dirt and wax
  • Location: European- Italian
  • Materials: silk and linen with an added silk backing
  • Condition: Poor-lots of bad conservation attempts by machine and hand, burns, dirt and wax
  • Size: 70.2 cm x 104cm

8   ) Textile Fragment-Altoebasso Velvet- 16th-17th centuries

  • Description:  Altoebasso velvet in gold, large floral motif, heavy weight fabric, likely 1500-1600’s, in several pieces sewn together, background is linen in a one over two weave
  • Location: European probably Italy
  • Materials: silk with linen ground
  • Condition: large area of dirt, mold or burn (dirt is likely) and areas of wear see condition report-worth saving
  • Size: 53cm weft x 103cm warp

9) Olive Green Silk Satin Jacquard Fragment – 17th century (INV 2084)

  • Description: olive green silk satin Jacquard fragment- 17th century-Asian style motifs with large flower and leaf design in center (18th c. maybe??)
  • Location: European
  • Materials: silk
  • Condition: signs of wear and dirt throughout –most minor wear with one area of moderate wear
  • Size: 53.3cm weft x 50.2cm warp

10) Yellow and Tan Silk Brocade (INV 2069)

  • Description: Yellow-tan silk brocade upholstery piece in 3 fragments sewn together with trim at seams- 17th century
  • Location: European
  • Materials: silk and linen
  • Condition: good
  • Size: 17.5cm warp x 166cm weft (17.5cm warp x 57.5cm each of the three pieces)

11) 17th Century Silk Brocade Fragment (INV 2066)

  • Description: silk with linen warp- red and gold in three pieces sewn together at top edge- motifs of pomegranate, cross, crown and eagle-brocade, not much fading on the red color
  • Location: European
  • Materials: silk and linen
  • Condition: moderate with rips in some areas
  • Size: bottom (cross) 47.5cm weft x 43cm warp.  Middle (crown and eagle) 33.5cm 31cm.  Top (eagle) 33cm x 46cm

12) Silk Satin with Floral Motif in Red (INV 2072)

  • Description: silk and linen fragments with a floral motif-red- 17th century(?), not much fading on the red
  • Location: European
  • Materials: silk and linen
  • Condition: poor with tears
  • Size: 72cm weft x 22.5 warp

13) 17th century Brocade (INV 2071)

  • Description: scarlet silk (very light weight) in floral pattern-fragment-brocade-17th century-still very bright
  • Location: European
  • Materials: silk
  • Condition: stains on back
  • Size: 72cm weft x 24.5cm warp

14) Green Silk Brocade Floral Pattern (INV 2075)

  • Description: green and gold silk brocade with silver gilt thread, floral pattern and metal trim on one edge-17th or 18th century
  • Location: European
  • Materials: silk with metal gilt
  • Condition: good
  • Size: 22.5cm weft x 53cm warp

15) Olive Green Silk Jacquard Fragment-18th century (INV 2073)

  • Description: olive green silk jacquard fragment with floral design (maybe brocade as it has large floats on the back)- 18th century
  • Location: European
  • Materials: silk
  • Condition: tears in corners and slight wear otherwise good
  • Size: 53.8cm weft x 43.2cm warp

16) Fragment Pink (INV 2065)

  • Description: pink floral brocade with metal thread cut and sewn together as if for a garment but no garment shape can be determined.  Pink on top and green silk on back.  Two patterns on this pieced; 1 in the background of the brocade a flower pattern in a quilted effect and 2 in a bright multi-color floral pattern with metal thread.
  • Location: European
  • Materials: silk, metal thread
  • Condition: good
  • Size:

17) Italian 17th Century Brocade Silk- gold with flowers (INV 2070)

  • Description: fragment of gold silk 17th brocade with small clusters/sprays of multi-color flowers
  • Location: Italy
  • Materials: Silk
  • Condition: Good
  • Size: 40cm x by 36.4cm

18) Orange, Gold and Ivory Brocade fragment-silk and linen (INV 2077)

  • Description: silk fragment, orange, gold, ivory colored brocade with metal threads only just apparent after considerable wear.  In two pieces with a seam
  • Location: European
  • Materials: Silk, linen and metal thread
  • Condition: Good
  • Size: 74.8cm x 12cm

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